A seismic shift is quietly taking place at one of Houston’s most prominent steakhouses. Underbelly Hospitality is in final negotiations to sell its steakhouse Georgia James, CultureMap has learned.
The new owners will be the partners behind Bari Ristorante, the Italian restaurant that opened last year in River Oaks District. Underbelly Hospitality owner Todd Mason and members of Bari’s ownership and management team shared the news with the Georgia James staff at a meeting on Wednesday, July 3.
While a representative for Underbelly Hospitality tells CultureMap the deal hasn’t been finalized, the new owners are already making plans to put their stamp on the restaurant. They’ve revised the restaurant’s proposed menu for Houston Restaurant Weeks and announced changes to staff uniforms that will be implemented later this month, according to an email from Bari partner Pedro Teyuca that was shared with CultureMap.
At this point, it is unclear what other changes, if any, the Bari team has in mind for the restaurant’s menu or decor. Bari’s representatives declined to comment, stating the deal to acquire the restaurant hasn’t been finalized.
Underbelly Hospitality founder chef Chris Shepherd opened Georgia James in 2018. The restaurant differs from traditional steakhouses in some important ways. Notably, it cooks all of its steaks on cast iron — rather than with a broiler — to ensure a proper crust that enhances their flavor. In the spirit of Underbelly, the pioneering Houston restaurant where Shepherd won a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southwest, Georgia James serves sides and appetizers inspired by Houston’s immigrant culinary traditions, such as Viet-Cajun roasted oysters, pho-spiced beef carpaccio, and roasted pork belly with gochujang cucumbers. Its over the top “Baller Boards” — giant wooden planks loaded with meat, seafood, and sides — have been a social media sensation.
The concept earned considerable acclaim, including being named the state’s best new restaurant of 2019 by Texas Monthly critic Pat Sharpe. More recently, it was one of only approximately 1,500 restaurants to earn a prestigious Best of Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator.
Originally, Georgia James replaced Underbelly at 1100 Westheimer. In 2022, it moved to its current home in the Regent Square mixed-use development.
Selling Georgia James is only the latest change at Underbelly Hospitality since Shepherd parted ways with the company two years ago. In June, the company closed Comalito, its Mexico City-inspired taqueria, after only seven months of operations. In March, it closed its Italian restaurant Pastore after less than a year in business. The company will continue to operate Wild Oats, its Texas comfort food restaurant in Spring Branch, two locations of Underbelly Burger, and J9 Wine Bar in Chicago, Illinois.
One of Houston’s most luxurious hotels has launched a new charity dining series that’s hosted by James Beard Award winner Chris Shepherd. Titled as the Celebrity Chef Pop-Up Series, the quarterly dinners at the Four Seasons Hotel Houston will feature Shepherd, who moonlights as CultureMap’s Wine Guy, and some of America’s top culinary talent.
Not surprisingly, the dinners will also serve as a fundraiser for the Southern Smoke Foundation, the nonprofit Shepherd founded with his wife Lindsey Brown that provides emergency assistance and mental health services to hospitality workers. Shepherd’s recent Respect the Rosé dinner provides a template for what diners can expect — a personal menu, big time chefs, and a rollicking good time.
“I’m thrilled to partner with Four Seasons in creating this ongoing pop-up series, featuring some of my friends and favorite chefs from around the country,” Shepherd said in a statement. “Bringing these exciting culinary experiences to H-Town is a great way to have some fun, and share great connections over amazing food and wine.”
Shepherd is launching the series on Sunday, August 4 with his take on Italian American comfort food. Working with chefs from the Four Seasons Houston, the six course, pre-fixe menu takes inspiration from Mr. C’s Steakhouse, Shepherd’s favorite restaurant from his childhood. It features all of the chef’s favorite dishes along with an environment that wouldn’t feel out of place in The Godfather — holiday lights, checkered tablecloths, and Rat Pack tunes. Houstonians may recall that the final iteration of One Fifth, Shepherd’s restaurant that changed concepts annually, also served this style of food.
Seatings will be at 5 pm and 8 pm. Reservations are available here. The dinner is priced at $195 per person with optional wine pairings available for $130 and prestige wine pairings available for $310.
Lineups for the fall and winter dinners will be announced in the future.
“Chris is a great friend to us and the Houston community as a whole, particularly through his Southern Smoke Foundation, which we’re proud to support” Four Seasons general manager Tom Segesta added. “In partnering with him to bring these exciting culinary experiences to Four Seasons, we’ll continue to showcase our downtown destination as a place where great things happen, including award-winning chef pop-ups from all over the country.”